What to Do If Your Roof Is Damaged in a Storm: Utah Homeowner Guide

Before we get into the details, here’s the part I wish every homeowner heard upfront. Most “roof advice” online is written like Utah has the same weather as somewhere mild and flat. We don’t.

On real inspections, we’re usually paying attention to the boring stuff: flashing, ventilation, drain paths, and how the previous install handled edges and penetrations. Those are the spots that decide whether your roof behaves during snow melt, wind-driven rain, and late-summer monsoons.

When someone asks about what to do if roof damaged in storm, we try to answer in plain English. What fails first on this type of roof? What’s easy to maintain? What’s expensive to fix later if we ignore it now?

If you remember nothing else, remember this: roofs don’t “randomly” leak. They leak where water is being funneled, trapped, or pushed—usually around transitions and details. That’s where good planning and good installation pay off.

Insurance claims are mostly documentation and timing. If you think you have storm damage, take photos, write down the date, and don’t wait until the next season to ask questions.

We’ve found that calm, thorough documentation beats arguing every time. Clear photos, measured damage, and a scope that matches the policy language make the process smoother.

First rule: don't go on the roof right after a storm. Wet shingles are slippery. Hail-damaged decking can be weak. One wrong step and you're in the ER instead of fixing the problem.

If you see obvious damage from the ground—missing shingles, bent flashing, debris—that's enough to know you need help. You can take photos from a ladder if you're comfortable, but keep both feet on the ladder and don't step onto the roof unless a professional has said it's safe.

If you have an active leak and water is coming through the ceiling, move furniture and put buckets or tarps under the drip. If it's severe, call a roofer for an emergency tarp. We'd rather tarp a roof than have you risk a fall.

Inside the attic, be careful too. Wet insulation and decking can give way. Only go up if you're sure the structure is sound and you're watching for soft spots.

Insurance companies need evidence. The sooner you document, the better. Take photos and video of: missing or damaged shingles, dented or cracked vents, damaged gutters, and any interior water damage. Include the date in your photos if possible.

Write down the date and time of the storm. Note what kind of weather it was—hail size, wind, duration. Your adjuster will ask. If neighbors have damage or are filing claims, that supports your case too.

Don't make permanent repairs before the adjuster has seen the damage. Temporary measures like tarping are fine and often expected. But don't tear off the roof or replace sections until your claim is documented. If you do, the insurer may say they can't verify the cause of damage.

Keep every receipt: tarps, emergency repairs, hotel if you had to leave. Many policies cover additional living expenses and reasonable emergency mitigation.

Order of operations matters. First: if anyone is hurt or the structure is unsafe, call 911. Then secure the property—tarp if needed, and call your insurance company to start a claim. They'll assign a claim number and often recommend or allow emergency mitigation.

Next, call a licensed roofer who does storm work. In Utah, you want someone who understands hail and wind damage and who can work with insurance. Get a full inspection and a written scope and estimate. That estimate helps you and your adjuster.

If the adjuster wants to meet at the property, having your roofer there can help. We can point out damage that isn't obvious and explain why a repair isn't enough when replacement is warranted. Don't feel pressured to use the insurer's preferred contractor; you have the right to choose your own.

Skip the door-knockers who show up right after a storm offering "free inspections" and pressure you to sign. Reputable local roofers don't need to chase storms door to door.

Not every storm means a full new roof. Sometimes it's a section of shingles, a few pieces of flashing, or a repaired valley. The right call depends on the extent of damage, the age of the roof, and what your policy covers.

Insurance often pays for replacement of the damaged "slope" or section if matching materials can't be found, or if damage is widespread. Hail that hits the whole roof typically leads to a full replacement. A single wind event that tears off one area might be a repair.

Get a clear scope from your roofer: what's repairable, what's not, and what they're writing for the insurance. Then compare that to the adjuster's estimate. If there's a big gap, your roofer can sometimes work with the carrier to reconcile.

In Utah, we see a lot of hail claims. When granules are knocked off and the mat is exposed across the roof, that's not something you "fix." It's a replacement. Your roofer should explain that in terms the adjuster understands.